How to get thicker hair- steps

1. Limit the use of chemical relaxers.
As mentioned times and times before, using chemical relaxers often and of course too soon, (6 weeks and before) will result in thin lifeless hair. Why? because chemical relaxers, or any chemical treatment for that matter, breaks the keratin bonds (protein) in the hair, which explains why our curly kinky hair is straight after the process. Such a strong process cannot and should not be done often. The continuous use of the harsh chemicals will continue to break down keratin bonds which may have not been returned to the hair after the previous process (a protein treatment should be done before relaxing to return or restore the keratin broken down previously). The effects of the overuse of this chemical is not far fetched, which includes breakage, split ends, thin hair etc.

2. Remove split ends
Thin ends or split ends, when left unattended , results in the hair appear thinner than it really is. Split ends are literally caused  when the ends of the hair actually split into strands. Split ends are caused by dry, damaged weak hair and cannot be repaired. By trimming away all split ends or damaged ends, the hair will be much thicker.

3. Use less heat
   Opt to air dry and roller setting, as continuous direct use of heat may lead to dry damaged ends.

4. Add castor oil to your regimen
Our very own castor oil, which we produce in Jamaica, may be used to thicken the hair. Whether used as a prepoo, a sealant, scalp oil, or in your conditioner, continuous use of castor oil will result in thicker growth.

5. Use products with panthenol as its ingredient 
Panthenol helps to thicken hair shaft naturally. Panthenol is also known as vitamin b5 which maybe used in hair products or may be taken orally. It may also be found in your daily hair supplements as a major ingredient.

6. Biotin intake
Biotin intake like panthenol, may thicken the hair naturally. Biotin is a water soluble vitamin, which is also apart of the vitamin b complex family, and is known as vitamin b7. It promotes hair growth and combats dryness. Therefore, opt to take biotin as a part of your daily vitamin regimen.

7. Use protein conditioners weekly or bi weekly
Protein causes the hair to swell in diameter. It also toughens the strands which makes it more resistant to breakage or any hair damage for that matter.

8. Deep Condition more often
Deep conditioning on a regular basis will of course, make the hair more resistant and stronger, by doing so overtime you will notice an increase in thickness of the hair.

What are Protective Styles ??

Protective styles, as the name suggests, are various styles which hide away the ends of the hair protecting it from external conditions which may lead to damage. The ends of the hair are the oldest part of the hair, as the hair grows from the roots, and thus more susceptible to damage. Of course, protective styles don't make your hair grow but they make it possible to eliminate breakage especially if your hair  breaks faster than it grows. Top 5 protective styles worn by the black community are :

1. Buns
Of course, buns hide away your ends, it is easy to do and very convenient if you want a simple protective style to put your hair in when leaving for work or school especially if you are late.

2. Braids
You can braid your natural hair or opt for braid extensions. Whether your braids are your natural hair or extensions it is important that your hair is also being taken care.

3 Weaves
Weave is my favourite protective style as it keeps my ends hidden and allows me to have a fresh style, while not having to use heat or relax to achieve the style I want. Your ends are thoroughly secured when  wearing weaves it is not exposed to the environment and it is not manipulated as such. If your hair thrives on low manipulation then braids and weaves may be for you. As mentioned before, it is still important to care your hair underneath. For example, I do a protein treatment before I do a sew in or when I take down a sew in. Also, it is important to find a moisturizer (preferably one in a spray bottle) to moisturize the cornrows underneath.

4. Flat Twists
Many of you know flat twists, and if you do you will know that it can be  a form of protective styling, as it too, hide away the ends of the hair. Flat twists are very similar to cornrows, in the sense that it is created with two sections of hair, although unlike cornrows which is created in three. Flat twists offer more versatility because unlike two strand twists, flat twists work equally well on both relaxed and natural hair.

5. Twisting
Twisting, or rope twisting is very popular in Jamaica. It may also be referred to as two strand twisting. It is also a form of protective styling but it doesn't work so well with relaxed hair, but of course with natural hair because it won't loose from the ends as easy as relaxed hair.

Hair Vitamins for Hair Growth- Choose your supplements wisely

                      A comprehensive guide to choosing your supplements. 


Basics

The foundation of all hair supplement regimes are a comprehenive multi-vitamin and mineral. Your multi should contain atleast 100%rda of all of your basic vitamins. If it doesn't you might want to consider taking an additional multi-mineral supplement.

For Growth

Your hair is made of Keratin which is made from sulfur bearing amino acids. For this reason, most supplements that help accelerate your growth rate contain some sort of suphur as well. Vitamins that extend you growth cycle also help your growth rate. Of course there are genetic limits to just how fast you hair grows but these vitamins help push your growth rate to the limit of these contraints. Other vitamins that help growth rate are vitamins that help maintain a healthy immune system and thyriod.

B-Complex vitamin; 50mg taken once or twice a day- B-complex vitamins are actually a group 8 vitamins. Thiamine(B1), Riboflavin(B2), Niacin(B3), Pyridoxine(B6), Folic Acid(B9), Cyanocobalamin(B12), Pantothenic Acid(B5), and Biotin. Biotin is sometimes referred to as Vitamin H.

As a whole, B-complex vitamins are involved breaking down protien, carbohydrates, and fats. B-vitamins help make DNA, bloodcells, maintain nerves and your gastrointestinal tract. When it comes to your hair, they help extend the growth cycle so that you can enjoy a longer period of hair growth.

Biotin is a sulpur bearing B-vitamin. Biotin is one of the most widely known "beauty" vitamins. Biotin helps increase growth by contributing to the overal suphur content in out bodies and in aiding the breakdown of protein. Most people show improvement with a daily intake of atleast 5mg of Biotin. Some have taken up to 15 mg without adverse results. There are no know adverse reactions to large doses of Biotin. Some diabetics are prescribed "super" doses to help insulin issues. When taking Biotin it is usually more benefical to split up doses thoughout the day. Biotin sometimes has to be manipulated to see the growth results. One way to do this is to alternate brands. Pick two brands and alternate between them every other month. Another way to do this is buy your daily dose before bedtime. Sleeping on some water soluble vitamins sometimes helps with absorbtion. You can also do a "loading dose" with biotin. For example, lets say you desire an overall intake of 7mg. For the first four weeks you take 10 mg, then for two weeks you drop down to 5mg, and then stick to 7mg thereafter as your maintance dose.

B5 also helps thicken hair strands. You can also take this separately.

One thing to remember when taking indiviual b vitamins is that your body needs a balance of B-vitamins and just taking one by itself can throw off our balance. So if you are taking biotin or b5 by itself you might want to include a b-complex once a day if your multivitamin doesn't have alot. Also, when taking any sort of B-vitamin it is important to space out your doses and make sure you are consuming enough water. If you are sensitive to supplements, start on low doses and work your way up. Stop if you have any adverse side effects.


MSM, Glucosamine, Sulphur bearing amino acids

MSM
Msm is a Methylsulfonylmethane, which is an organic source of sulphur. Msm is present in many foods such as raw fruits, vegetables, milk, and some grain products. Msm is very fragile and processing and cooking deplete foods of their msm content. This is all the more reason to add it to your supplement regime. Msm is a water soluable mineral and any excess is flushed out your system every 12 hours. Amounts as high as 2000mg/kg have been adminstred for tesing purposes without any signs of toxicity. Msm is sold in powder form either in loose form or enclosed in capsules. Msm is also used to help treat other ailment from joint stiffness to allergies. Msm also has a cleansing effect on your system. Some people experience headaches and skin breakouts when first beginning supplementation. One way to avoid this is to start off with a low dose and slowly build up to higher doses. Some people also experience vivid dreams when taking msm. You also need to consume enough water to make sure that you a fully hydrated. The water usually helps speed up the eliminatation of the toxins msm sweeps out. There are no known harmful long or short term effects of Msm supplementation.

The benefits as for as hair and skin are concerned from msm supplementation are softer skin and hair, improved texture of skin and hair, and improved growth. Since Msm adds sulphur to your body, alot of people notice a softer and smoother texture of hair. Many also experience increased growth and density. When deciding on how to incorparate Msm in your vitamin regime, you first need to consider the brand you want to use. There are many brands out there to choose from and you need to be selective and get the best quality. Optimsm and Lignusil msm are patented forms of msm that many have used with success. These type of msm are packaged under many different brand names. Most brands list which kind of msm they have used on the package. You need to also consider your delievery method. Using the loose powder that comes in jar is the most popular way to use msm. You get better absorbtion this way and it is more economical. All you have to do with the powder is mix a little with water or your favorite juice. I recommend you mix it with something that has a little vitamin c because vitamin c helps absorbtion. When starting Msm supplementation, start at a low dose and slowly build up from there. This will give you time to learn how your body responds so you can adjust your water intake or vitamin c intake as you see fit. After you have gotten used to Msm, you can take as much as you can stand. Some ladies here take as little as 2000mg to 30,000mg with great results.

Glucosamine

We have all heard of glucosamine before in all the ads to help heal tired worn out and joints and such but who would have thought it benefits the hair. Well, glucosamine is also another nutrient that adds sulphur to our bodies. Glucosamine is made up of glucose and glutamine and it helps the body product glycosaminoglycans which aid in the development of bone, connective tissue, skin and hair. Glucosamine is usually dervived from shellfish so if you allergic to shellfish, this is not for you. Glucosamine works very well in tandem with Msm. For glucosamine supplementation, start at 500mg twice a day.

Sulphur bearing amino acids

The major single amino acids that contribute to hair growth are L-Cysteine, L-Methionine, and L

ysine.

L-Cysteine

This sulphur bearing amino acid makes up almost 8%-10% of each hair strand. L-Cysteine helps accelerate hair growth and increase overall diameter of each strand. L-Cysteine is also a known antioxiant. L-Cysteine supplementation also increases elasticity in the skin and added strength to the hair and nails. L-Cysteine also helps aid healing of skin wounds. When taking L-Cysteine as with any other single amino acid, it is important to rotate between single amino acids and amino acid complexes. The reason being is to again regulate your internal levels. Whenever one amino acid level is thrown out of whack for a long period of time, the amino acid starts to lose its theraputic qualites. By rotating between singles and complexes, you assure that your internal levels stay balanced and that you get the best effect of the amino acids. This does not have to be complicated either. Just take your singles for a month or two and then take an amino acid complex or just up of protien intake for the next month or two. I usually just add a extra spoon or so of protien powder in my shakes when I am on a break from the single amino acids. L-Cysteine works very well as a supplement. Vitamin C also helps the absorbtion of single amino acids so take additional Vitamin C when experimenting with single aminos such as this one. Take single amino acids on an empty stomach with water or juice, no milk because it will compete with the supplement. You can start at 500mg a day and increase to as much as 2000mg a day. There has been evidence that excessive L-Cysteine could damage dna but everyones body reacts differently. Excessive is usually described as being 2500mg and over for a long period of time. Most healthy diets contribute 1000mg of L Cysteine daily.

L-Methionine

The benefits of this amino acid are similar to the benefits of L-Cysteine. L-Methionine helps preserve the health of the hair root. It also has antioxiant properties and helps remove toxins from the liver. This amino acid is used when treating acetaminophen (Tylenol) poisoning which damages the liver. This amino acid might raise levels of homocysteine in the body which has been linked with coronary heart disease. This risk is with excessive supplementation which is why it is important to take moderate doses of single amino acids and take breaks. The dosage is the same for L-Cysteine. When taken properly L-Methionine contributes alot to the overall health of your hair.




Liquid and Gel forms

Alot of companies produce gel or liquid forms of silica supplements. These products claim to be one of the best ways to take silica because of their absorbtion properties. They are usually mixed with juice or water. Alot of the formulas are prepared from quartz. Dosage varies from brand to brand. Some brands that make some popular liquid and gel formulas are Jarrow, Natures Way, Cellfood, Natures Works, and Natures Answer.

With silica supplements some have found it benefical to rotate brands and formulations to obtain the best effect. Silica also seems to work well in conjuction with sulphur rich supplements, especially MSM.

Other things to consider


Beet Juice Tablets

Beet juice is naturally high in sulphur and iron. When taken as a supplement, beet juice helps thicken the hair and sometimes helps increase growth.

Grapeseed Extract and CoEnzyme Q10

Grapeseed Extract is a popluar antioxiant that also increases circulation. This increase in circulation helps promote better growing conditions. CoEnzyme Q10also increases circulation. By increasing your circulation, you help maintain a even flow of nutrients to the scalp therefore creating the best growing conditions possible.

Zinc

Zinc is an important mineral that supports the immune system. Make sure you consume adquate zinc. You should aim to consume between 15-30mg of zinc. Too little or too much zinc can cause hair loss. Zinc also helps prevent DHT in the body. DHT can lead to premature hair loss. Zinc also helps maintain the oil producing glands on the scalp and adquate zinc intake can help decrease dandruff and dry scalp conditions.

Iodine

Iodine is vital to growing healthy hair. Sheep farmers long ago discovered that vegetation void of iodine due to iodine-depleted soil will adversely affect the growth of wool in sheep.Iodine is synthetically added to table salt, however in this form it is not assimilated well into the body and can therefore cause iodine overload. An excess of iodine in the body can adversely affect the thyroid. It is best to use non-iodized salt and retrieve your iodine from natural food sources. These include seaweed, salmon, seafood, lima beans, molasses, eggs, potatoes with the skin on, watercress and garlic.

Spirulina and other greenfoods

Spirulina contains all sorts of helpful vitamins and minerals from beta carotene, to protein, to iron. Spirulina also contains GLA, an omega fatty acid. Spirulina is also rich in phytochemicals that help enhance the effects of vitamins and minerals. Alot people add spirulina into their daily diet through pill supplements or in powdered form added to drinks and shakes. Other greenfoods to consider adding to your diet are barley and wheatgrass.


In Closing

Supplementation is not necessary to grow long hair. Many people have grown hair to the lengths they desire without extra supplements. What supplements however do help you enhance your hair growing experience. Your hair is only going to grow but oh so fast but whay not experiment with different supplements and really see what your genetic limits of growth are.

Why not make is stronger, softer or enhance the shine. By adding certain supplements into your diet, you also recieve other health benefits besides just better hair growth. As we have all said before when crying about our trimming set backs, health = length.

The same must be said for our health habits. Hair is one of our bodies waste products and by changing what we put into our bodies, we can help change the appearance and quality of what comes out. So lets reduce our refined sugar intake, increase our protein intake, increase our fruits and veggies and choose a couple of supplements to try.

Lets increase the quality of what we put inside ourselves so we can reap the benefits in how we feel and how we look.

Ten Steps To grow Long Hair

1. Use gentler shampoos-
Typical shampoos we use contain harsh sulphates which strip the hair of its natural oils which may lead to dryness and breakage.


2. Protein treatments should be used to rebuild hair structure.
The hair is made up of at least 88 % protein, one of its characteristics is that of a hard fiborous kind of protein, known as Keratin. Protein treatments strengthen the hair and also treat weak, brittle hair. The treatments leave hair soft, smooth, full and healthy. Whenever chemicals are applied to the hair, whether chemical relaxers or bleach, it breaks down protein in the hair making it susceptible to split ends and breakage. In essence, protein rebuilds hair structure thus making the hair strong which is more resistant to breakage, split ends and overall damage to hair. If you are chemically relaxed you will have a greater need for protein, and should be used twice at least twice a  month, an egg treatment has been proven to be an effective protein treatment and usually stops breakage immediately.


3. Use Moisture treatments
Moisture treatments help build hair's resilience and prevent breakage. Notably, although protein treatments are necessary for healthy hair, it has the tendency to make the hair dry when over used or if it is not balanced with moisture, which may lead to breakage. Deep conditioners usually contain both moisture and protein and in this sense it may not be necessary to use both treatments (protein and moisture) separately. Deep Conditioners which contain protein usually portrays a name which depicts building of the hair structure. For example, reconstructor.


4. Use water and oil based moisturizers correctly.
Too often we use hair oil with petroleum and mineral oil, not knowing that these ingredients do not, in any way moisturize the hair. However, if used appropriately, it may be used during moisturizing and sealing of  the hair. Water based moisturizers penetrate the hair shaft, while oils seal or lock the moisture in the hair when used in conjunction with the water based moisturizer. Both done together is called moisturizing and sealing, which effectively moisturizes the hair. Some oils on their own may also penetrate the hair shaft such as jojoba oil, olive oil and coconut oil.




5. Use vitamins to increase growth
 Vitamins used in the right proportion will contribute to hair growth. One major hair growth vitamin is Biotin, which is a water soluble vitamin necessary for hair growth. Research has shown that 5000 mcg may be necessary to experience growth. Other vitamins such as vitamin E, which increases blood flow to the scalp and vitamin b5 (panthenol) which increases thickness and growth may be combined to achieve maximum growth. 


6. Use a wide tooth comb
Always use a wide tooth comb to prevent tangling of the hair.


7. Limit the use of heat and use thermal protectants before applying heat.
The use of heat temporarily weakens the protein bonds in the hair making it more susceptible to breakage. Too much heat overtime and regularly may lead to permanent damage. Thermal protectants, as the name suggests, protects the hair from straight heat by creating a barrier between the hair and the flat iron to guard the hair cuticle from straight heat.  


8. Use satin/silk scarf or pillow case to sleep


Cotton material tends to absorb moisture from the hair which is needed. Satin or silk, on the other hand, does not have this characteristic, as it allows the hair to retain the moisture while protecting it friction and damage. 


9. Wear Protective Styles


Protective styles are styles which do not expose the ends of the hair and eventually protects it from external damages which may lead to dry hair. The ends are the oldest part of the hair, as hair grows from the root, and great attention must be paid to prevent damage. Examples of protective styles are buns, sewed in weaves and french twists, all of the above hide away the ends. 


10. Limit the use of chemical relaxers


Limiting the use of chemical relaxers will overtime result in thicker and healthier hair. Chemical relaxers break down protein bonds in the hair to make it straight, such a harsh process should not be done so often in order to attain healthy hair. Therefore, opt to stretch. Stretching is limiting the number of times the hair is relaxed by stretching out the time between relaxers. The typical 6 weeks to relax will make the hair weak and limp. Eight weeks is sufficient time to wait between relaxers. However, stretching is anything after 10 weeks post relaxer.  One may say it is unmanageable after a certain number of weeks, however there are many ways to control our new growth .

Castor Oil will make your hair grow!

Castor oil is extracted from the seeds of the Ricinus Communis plant and has been used since time of immemorial for a variety of conditions and complaints, including hair and skin care. Treating hair breakage and encouraging hair growth with castor oil has long been recognized in the alternative health field. Castor oil is in our Jamaican backyards! Yes, the same one grandma makes or the one you pay somebody to make. Its sold worldwide and marketed as Jamaican Black Castor oil, otherwise known as JBCO. Its a popular growth aid in the black hair community. As a matter of a fact in Jamaica we don't have access to a wide range of growth aids, but we do have castor oil. By incorporating it in your regimen you are guaranteed increased hair growth, reduced damage and breakage, it treats dry hair conditions and condition and moisturizes hair and scalp. 

What Are the Benefits of Castor Oil for Hair Growth?
Regular castor oil use on your hair’s roots and scalp will help:
Increase hair growth
Thicken hair that is starting to thin out
Reduce and prevent hair damage
Eliminate dry hair
Make the hair fuller and shinier
Deeply condition and moisturize hair and scalp
Prevents dry scalp
Boost your hair’s overall health

How to use castor oil:

1  Prepare your scalp for treatment. Wash your hair with regular shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Towel dry and let it air dry for 5 to 10 minutes.

2 Prepare castor oil solution. Mix equal parts castor oil and grape seed oil to create an oil treatment.

3 Apply castor oil solution to the scalp. Slowly massage the castor oil into the scalp to cover it entirely. Make sure all areas including the base of the scalp near the neck and patches around the ears are covered with the oil solution.

4 Wrap your hair in a towel or use a steam cap  and let the treatment set for at least 15 to 20 minutes.



5 Rinse the hair with warm water.


6 Repeat the process at least 1 to 2 times per week. This will help stimulate hair growth and help slow down hair loss over time.




As an alternative, castor oil may be applied to the scalp everyday or every other day as a natural oil or a sealant.

Building a hair regimen

In order to start growing healthy hair, it is important to create a defined regimen which will entail, as the name suggests,  things to be done to the hair and the products to be used in a prescribed order and perhaps time. Before building a regimen it is important, if you are new to this, to read the ten steps for hair growth posted on the blog spot. However, the most important thing in building a hair regimen is determining what your hair needs and what works for you. Typically finding the right regimen is trial and error. Typical hair regimen should include the following :





One Moisturizing Shampoo. 
This should be used 1-2x/week depending on your schedule. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. These shampoo's listed below, leave the hair detangled and soft. Here are some examples:

Creme of Nature (red and green label) Shampoo, Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo, Elucence Moisture Benefits, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo, Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo


One Clarifying Shampoo.
A clarifying shampoo should be used 1-2x/month if you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean. Here are some examples:

Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo, Suave Shampoos, Nexxus aloe rid shampoo, Avalon Organics Lemon and shea butter, Ion clarifying shampoo

One Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner.
You should follow up with one of these conditioners after every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I would recommend deep conditioning the hair for 30-45mins preferably with heat (hooded dryer). Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength. Protein conditioners should be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair. Here are some examples of moisturizing conditioners:

Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner, Silk Elements Moisturizing Treatment, KeraCare Humecto, Mizani Moisturefuse, Elasta QP DPR-11, Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner, Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner


Here are some examples of Protein Conditioners:

ORS Hair Mayo, Aphogee 2 min reconstructor, Nexxus Keraphix, Affirm 5 n 1, Aphogee 2 Step, Nexxus Emergencee, Motions CPR, Elasta QP Anti Breakage Serum

One Leave-in conditioner. 
This should be used after washes or as a daily moisturizer. Here are some examples:

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in, Elasta QP H-Two Leave-in, Infusium 23, Cantu Shea Butter, Salerm 21, Lacio Lacio


Water based moisturizer (1 Moisturizing 1 Protein). 
Use daily to hydrate the hair. Avoid moisturizers that contain mineral oil, lanolin, petrolatum. I recommend using your moisturizer 1-2x/day (morning & night). Here are some examples:

Moisturizing: S-Curl, Hollywood Beauty Olive & Carrot Oil, ORS Olive Oil, ORS Carrot Oil, Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion Protein: Cantu Shea butter, Elasta QP Mango Butter, Profective Healthy ends

Natural Oils are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Add a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up


Growth Aids: As the name suggests it helps or creates the best environment for the hair grow. Examples of growth aids are hair vitamins, (GNC Hair, skin and nails supplements, country life maxi hair vitamins, hairfinity supplements etc) sulphur, and hair growing oils such wildgrowth and gro aut oil, castor oil (We produce our own castor oil in Jamaica).




Don't forget to do protective styles , limit relaxers done and limit heat usage!!! 

Different lengths of hair- how to distinguish

It is important, in my opinion if you are serious about hair growth you must establish a goal you would like to attain. For example, I am thriving for Mid Back Length, that is below the Bra Strap Length.