How to counteract split ends

Trichoptilosis otherwise known as split ends, occurs when the hair shaft splits or frays away due to damage. In essence, the hair splits into more than one strand. Unfortunately, once the hair is split it cannot be repaired therefore, split ends must be trimmed away.




Signs of Split Ends







1. The hair has no body or bounce but appears lifeless.

2. Does not hold curl or does not straighten well with heat.

3. Hair strands appear uneven.

4. Appears dull, lifeless and thin.

5. Your hair may show an increase in overall breakage.

6. It appears redder at the ends

7. The hair easily gets caught on itself.







What are the Causes of Split Ends?

Split ends are caused by many factors, factors which put stress on the hair. However, factors such as the use of low moisture balance within the hair strand and absence of protein in the hair resulting in weaker hair will also contribute to split ends. Eventually, dry hair that is not attended to results in the cracking or the unravelling of the cuticle which results in exposing the cortex of the hair.




Heat Use




Continuous heat use rapidly depletes moisture content in the hair and break down protein bonds in the hair making it much weaker and susceptible to damage. Frequent use of heating tools increases your chances of cuticle damage because dry, unconditioned cuticles are much more prone to chipping, peeling, and splitting. Excessive heat use is also the main contributor to the trichorrexis nodoosa types of split ends.



Relaxing and Coloring

Relaxing and Coloring the hair are processes that breach and degrade the cuticle in order to perform their specific functions properly. When the cuticle is broken down, weakened, and compromised, splitting of the hair will soon follow. These culprits are perhaps a major factor in mid-shaft splitting of the hair. Always exercise caution when subjecting your hair to these chemical processes. More protein and moisturizing deep conditioning treatments will need to be done (and more regularly) in order to protect this hair against split end problems.

Harsh Shampoos

Shampoos that are too harsh on the hair will zap the hair of its precious moisture content. Frequent usage of these "cuticle stripping" shampoos may cause the hair to become more vulnerable to splitting over time. Always use gentle shampoo formulations, preferably sulfate free lines like Creme of Nature. If hard water conditons or frequent swimming require you to use clarifying and chelating shampoos regularly, make sure your protein and moisturizing deep conditioning regimen in on point to counteract the cuticle wear and tear.

The Elements (Sun, Wind, Cold, Arid Air)

The sun is yet another moisture eliminating element. Its oxidative effects on the hair can make splitting problems worse. Combine this with other elements like wind and cold, and the hair does not stand a chance. Studies show that photochemical damage is most likely when the hair is kept damp for extended periods of time, so avoid prolonged periods of sun time if your hair is damp. Deep conditioning, moisturizing, and sealing the hair are extremely important for protecting against damage from the elements, especially if you live in an extreme climate. Be sure to thoroughly dry the hair before heading out into the sun!

What to do?

The best way to cure split ends is by preventing them in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, split ends CANNOT be repaired, glued back together, or eliminated. The only means of repairing them involves a pair of shears .

How to prevent them ?
Limit heat use to once to twice a month. Limit the use of blow dryers and opt for hooded dryers instead, as this is not direct heat. As it relates to the type of heat tools to use ceramic or tourmaline heating tools. These tools provide an even, controllable heat, allowing them to straighten your hair with more efficiency in fewer passings. There are also no "hot spots" on the plates to contend with, so styling is fast and easy! Always be sure to use a heat protectant or high temperature serum before any application of heat. In addition, ensure you only apply heat to freshly deep conditioned hair.

If you are relaxed be sure to use reconstructing conditioners (protein conditioner) and deep conditioners to prevent split ends, and moisturize and seal where necessary. A Hard protein treatment before you relax  helps to prevent split ends as well. Aphogee 2 step is a good one, prevents splitting, breaking and thinning.






Cuticle Flattening Rinses

Rinsing the hair periodically with an acidic rinse will help keep the cuticles flat and intact, staving off the proliferation of split ends. Ideally these rinses should be done every 2-3 weeks as preventive maintenance against splitting or for combating problems with hair porosity. A popular acidic rinse is Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) in water. My personal dilution for this rinse is 2 cups of cool water to 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar. After you have washed and deep conditioned your hair as normal, pour the apple cider vinegar rinse over your hair. Rinse in cool water. Rinsing the hair in cool water following a wash will also help to mechanically close down the cuticle layers, preventing splits from forming. Your hair should be gleaming and nicely detangled now! If you still detect the awful smell of the ACV rinse on your hair after the initial rinsing, continue to rinse in cool water until you cannot smell it. If the rinse makes your hair hard and tangly, reduce the amount of ACV in your rinse next time around.
Moisturizing, Sealing, and Conditioning

Moisturizing the hair with a water-based moisturizer and sealing the hair with oil will help the hair strand fight all types of splitting and breakage. It provides a daily protective barrier for the cuticle from the sun and other types of elemental breakage and keeps the cuticle pliable and soft to prevent against breakage from styling tools. Always have your hair lubricated with something! Never attempt to "dry style" your hair.

Deep conditioning the hair with moisturizing conditioners, and treating the hair with protein reconstructors can also help improve the appearance of the hair and fight split ends. Protein supplementation reinforces the cuticle and helps it resists chipping, unravelling, or breaking. Please understand that these treatments cannot fix, repair, or stop any splitting or damage that has already occurred. They can improve the hair's appearance and fight any future problems before they happen.

Decrease Overall Manipulation

This is very important! Simply decreasing the manipulation your hair experiences by your combing, brushing, and styling will decrease your number of split ends. Protective styles that keep the hair up and off of the shoulders and out of the elements are great for keeping your ends healthy as well. When washing the hair, avoid manhandling and roughly towel drying your hair. Wet hair is very fragile. Towel drying roughs up the cuticles and causes more tangling problems than you can imagine! Gently squeeze the hair in a "milking" fashion to release any excess water from the hair. You may gently pat your hair with your towel to catch the extra water, but do not rub or towel scrunch the h

Know Your Protein

A Guide to Protein

Silk Amino Acids - Help to seal the hair cuticle, increase detangling & shine, and acts as a moisturizer by preventing dryness. Used to penetrate the hair to add body and strength.

Wheat Amino Acids - Wheat amino acids increase the hair's ability to retain moisture and impart shine and gloss to damaged and dull hair. Due to its low molecular weight, wheat amino acids easily penetrate the hair shaft and bind to hair's inner fibers.

Keratin Amino Acids - This amino acid helps to restructure damaged hair. Keratin helps strengthen and build healthy hair.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein - Known to add strength and manageability to hair. It is able to keep the cuticle smooth, repair and strengthen hair. This vegetableprotein helps hair retain moisture. Hydrolyzed soy protein also adds shine, provides ease of combing, and reinforces the hair preventing breakage.

Hydrolyzed Silk Protein - Nourishes and strengthens while delivering natural sheen and softness. A film-forming agent used to care for dry, damaged hair. It binds moisture, increases hair volume, and improves its manageability and overall structure. Provides ease of combing and smoothness to feel of hair, provides control to the hair from application to completion of styling.

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein - Low molecular weight penetrates the hair shaft to rebuild and strengthen damaged hair. Rice Protein strengthens and expands the diameter of the hair shaft to create a noticeably thicker, more luxurious look.

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein - Derived from oats; adds texture and thickens hair, soothes, softens, and nourishes it.Restores strength and elasticity. Easily diffuses into the hair shaft to give a fuller, healthier look.

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein - Conditions and detangles the hair. Provides moisture, great softness and manageability.

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein - Corn Protein with mid-range molecular weight adds shine and luster.

Hydrolyzed Elastin: - Helps attract and retain moisture to smooth and soften the hair & give elasticity.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: - Strengthens and thickens the hair. It attracts and retains moisture (Film-forming agent which retains water) thus improving hair manageability & elasticity. Excellent penetration into the outer protective layer of hair up to the outer cortex. This protein conditions the hair with its moistureretention and film forming properties, which will greatly improve the body, shine, and smoothness of hair.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein & Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch (normally you see these two together) - This is a naturally derived, unique hydrating complex offers a combination of moisture-balancing and film-forming properties that work synergistically to give hair better body control and a smoother, softer feel. Wheat starch, on the other hand, has a low molecular weight and are very hygroscopic (attracts moisture from the atmosphere). Together they penetrate and holdmoisture within the hair shaft.

Hydrolyzed Collagen - Adds body, resiliency, shine, and manageability as well as reduced static charge also provides moisturizing benefits. Used to strengthen hair structure. It is the primary element for hair elasticity.

Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin: -This protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables it to penetrate the hair shaft. provide greater elasticity, reduce breakage and give a natural, healthy bounce.

Hydrolyzed Keratin - The true structural protein of hair. Penetrates the hair shaft to rebuild damaged hair and give it increased body . Keratin coats each individual strand of hair to strengthen and protect.

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein - A powerful hair strengthening protein complex that instantly & dramatically improves the condition of damaged hair. Vegetable protein absorbs more easily into the hair shaft (than animal protein) and does not create build-up, it leaves the hair very shiny, radiant, luxuriant, and healthy.

Hydrolyzed Animal Protein - Appears in many shampoos. Improves hair, adds shine and body to the hair and helps smooth split ends. Gives luster to the hair.

Hydrolyzed Animal Collagen - Animal derived collagen that gives body to the hair and helps protect it from sun, wind and weather damage. It leaves a protective emollient film.

I want my hair long now! What to do?

I want long healthy hair? Is it possible if I never had long hair and it is not in my family??? 

YES IT IS!
EVERYBODY hair grows, some slower or faster than some, but the average hair growth rate is 1/2 inch per month or 6 inches a year. Look at it this way, if your hair grows 0.5 inch per month but it breaks faster than it grows due to improper treatment or poor diet (which most of us have) then you will forever think your hair isn't growing.

So where should I start ?


Start by building a regimen that suits your hair (see post entitled regimen building). A hair regimen is a routine or a certain set way of things done to the  hair on a weekly, bi weekly or daily basis. Examine your hair before building a regimen and see what your hair needs. So for example, if you have plenty split ends, your hair is weak, and thin you may need to start by cutting off the damaged ends, and incorporate in your regimen, protein at least twice a month, followed by a moisture treatment, until  the hair condition has improved. Or a deep condition which contains light protein properties and moisture properties, maybe used on a weekly basis (see post for 'know your protein' to know what to look in your treatments'). Add more moisture to your regimen by moisturizing and sealing daily (everybody needs that), add a natural oil to a do pre poo (before shampoo) or hot oil treatment on a weekly basis or bi weekly basis and a growth aid may be added if your hair needs that extra boost to grow, for example, I take hair supplements which is correctly portioned with the right amount of individual vitamins needed for hair growth, or our very own castor oil itself is a growth aid and maybe used on the scalp daily or as a pre poo on  a weekly basis. An example of a hair regimen:


Example of Regimen :
Oil scalp daily with castor oil
Moisturize and seal with olive oil hair lotion and seal with coconut oil
Prepoo with a mixture of oils (for example olive oil, rosemary oil, coconut oil)
Followed by Shampooing with a moisture shampoo and using a protein conditioner afterwards (every week or bi weekly or both may be done alternatively on a weekly basis)
Clarify (removing all buildup) with a clarifying shampoo on a monthly basis





How long will it take?

Since hair grows 1/2 inch per month that equals 6 inches per year, for example, if you are shoulder length and you  want Bra Strap Length hair (see post 'different lengths' of hair) that usually takes  at most, 1 and 1/2 to two years, accounting for trims or minor set backs. Neck Length to Arm Pit length (an imaginary line drawn from where both arms meet on your back) usually takes a year and from full shoulder to arm pit length at most, seven months. All of which will ONLY be done with proper hair care routines. If you decide to grow out your hair, you have to learn the art of retention. Retaining hair length requires babying your hair ends, as it is the oldest part of the hair and the first to show damage, protecting styling, hiding away ends to preserves moisture and prevent damage, and moisturizing and sealing to prevent the hair ends from getting dry and thus preventing breakage, and doing protein treatments so that hair will be more resistant to hair damage, lessening the use of heat and how often you get a relaxer, are all ways of retaining hair length.

Protein or moisture, which one should I use?

Balancing Protein and Moisture 


Protein and Moisture are the corner stone to healthy hair, however, it is important we know how and when to use them. 


How to assess


(When Wet or Dry) If your hair stretches slightly and returns to its original length without breaking, you are balanced! Stick with maintaining!

(When Wet or Dry) If your hair stretches a little more than normal then breaks, you need more protein in your regimen.

(When Wet or Dry)If your hair stretches, stretches, stretches with no significant breakage yet, add a bit more protein to your regimen.

(Wet) Feels weak, gummy, mushy, or limp, you need to add more protein to your regimen.

(Wet or Dry) Experiences very little to no stretching, and simply snaps or breaks, you need to increase the moisture in your regimen.

(Dry) Feels rough, tough, hard, dry, tangly, brittle, or any combination of those, you need more moisture in your regimen.

Unsure? On the side of caution and give your hair more moisture.


When your hair is thrown off balance by too much protein, it will break easier on wet or dry hair because it lacks elasticity. Elasticity is what allows us to style, stretch, and manipulate our hair without brekage.

My hair is breaking? What should I do

Hair Breakage 


If your hair is breaking you need a protein treatment IMMEDIATELY! Hair that breaks is damaged hair and the ends must be removed to save the hair's health or you may opt for a hard protein treatment that will temporarily repair the hair (for example aphogee 2 step, see post about aphogee review) but eventually the damaged ends must be removed, as it can never be permanently repaired.  Adding an egg to your regular deep conditioner or conditioner is a great protein treatment for severely damaged hair. Hair breakage may be caused by dry hair which may be as a result of the lack of moisture, too much protein, too much heat or heat used on a regular basis and number one reason for breakage is...... Overprocessed hair. Hair that is overprocessed is that which is relaxed too often, or bleached or any chemicals service that may damage the hair if left on too long or used too frequently. All of which break down protein in the hair, making it thin, having less versatility and thus it breaks. Here in Jamaica, we think we need to relax every 6 weeks, and eventually when this is done, the hair becomes thinner and thinner and is damaged overtime.


Signs of damaged hair that is breaking or may lead to breakage is thin lifeless hair, which may be dry and bare uneven ends. Once you have any of the latter signs, right after you do an emergency hard protein treatment, re-evaluate your regimen. Ask yourself , what is it that I did wrong before? or what wasn't I doing?( Refer to the post "Building a hair regimen" if you are not familiar with the term and how to construct one). Add more moisture to your regimen if it appears extremely dry, by moisturizing and sealing daily (which is moisturizing the hair and locking or sealing the moisture in the hair shaft with oil) , sleeping with a satin scarf, doing hot oil treatments or pre poo (before you shampoo) with natural oils overnight and deep condition regularly. The hair may also be damaged from chemical services, as said before, so it may be important to incorporate the use of protein more often in your regimen, or just until the hair is healthy, nonetheless protein is still important to maintain healthy hair which is resistant to breakage.

What's a good protein treatment.

It has been said in many posts before, hair is made up of protein, as a matter of a fact the hair is made up of 70 percent protein by nature, L cysteine, and L Methionine are the sulfur amino acids that form 'keratin', which is the protein structure of hair, egg yolk which contains the two amino acids naturally.The remaining 30 % is moisture.


By adding protein to your regimen, the hair will be stronger and more resistant to breakage and ultimately healthy and full. As mentioned before, women with relaxed hair or color treated hair need more protein as the chemical process breaks down protein in the hair. In other words, relaxing or colour treating your hair compromises the protein structure of the hair and weakens it by breaking the protein bonds in the hair shaft. The stronger the relaxer or dye and the longer it is left on the hair, the weaker the protein bonds become and for this reason, the hair will be thin and lifeless.



How can I replenish my hair with protein?


There are two types of protein treatment, the first kind may be washed out and the second is leave in. Usually the former type of protein treatment should be applied to towel dried hair after shampooing and usually requires staying in the hair before rinsing. Whilst, the leave in treatment, as the names suggests requires the treatment to be left in the hair without rinsing it out. You may opt for either treatment. The first kind of treatment which may be washed out, may also come in the form of hard and light protein .


The fact that  hard and light protein treatment are distinguished, clearly, all protein treatments are not created equal. For a light protein treatment, look for products that bare the name "re constructor" for routine care. This may be applied two to three times a month, but is highly recommended to be used with a moisture treatment after the application to counteract the dryness that may be associated with protein. Too much protein will make the hair brittle and crunchy. Some Deep Conditioners may also contain light protein  which may be used on a regular basis and may too replenish the hair with protein.


Contrastingly, if your hair is breaking off due to damage which may come from chemical damage, you will need a hard protein treatment to save as much hair as you can. Though, ladies who have chemically treated hair can also opt to do hard protein treatments, whether or not the hair is severely damaged, but as a preventative measure but is recommended to be kept at a minimum, to prevent overload protein in the hair which may lead to dryness and ultimately breakage.




How will I know when to use protein? 


If you have chemically treated or perform chemical services on the hair, whether it is bleached, relaxed or you use a lot of heat, you will require more protein than someone who is natural, as all the aforementioned services, break down or alter protein bonds in the hair shaft and as such, must be replenished  and a protein treatment now becomes necessary. But as stated times and times before, too much protein will lead to dryness and eventually breakage so be careful. It is usually recommended that women who have chemical services done to the hair use protein 2 times a month, while someone who is completely natural may only need protein once a month. And of course, protein must be counteracted with moisture.


See post "Protein and Moisture treatments, what's the difference"?

Review on the aphogee protein line

I would definitely recommend the aphogee line, it is sold in Jamaica that is of course, number one before recommending the product, it is a great protein line and maybe used on severely damaged hair for greater improvement. The number one product in the aphogee line is the Aphogee 2 step protein treatment which is used to repair damaged hair and split ends, though damaged hair cannot be repaired permanently, a hard protein treatment of this nature will do so temporarily and overtime it may improve its condition and then you may clip the remaining damaged hair. It saves you length overtime as it guards the hair and make it more resistant to breakage, split ends and damage on a whole. It is to be applied every 6 weeks and MUST be followed up with the second part of the treatment, which is the Aphogee Balancing Moisturizer.

How it works?
 Upon applying the first part to the treatment and using the blow dryer or staying under a hooded dryer for a few minutes without a plastic cap, the hair is now 'hard'. How this works is since the treatment is a concentrated blend of modified proteins and magnesium, when the heat is applied the hair hardens as the bonding and repair process beings, as mentioned previously,  damaged hair  cannot be repaired but will save you length if the hair is damaged and at first instance you do not want to cut. After rinsing out the first part to the treatment, the protein, you should follow up with  moisture which is the Aphogee balancing moisturizer to return the hair to its normal PH and counteract the dryness that may be associated with protein.

The aphogee 2 min reconstructor may be used in place of the aphogee 2 step protein treatment if you only need a light protein treatment at the moment. It is fortified with vitamins, oils, and of course protein and it helped me with growing my  hair when I using it as a weekly protein conditioner. (To  differentiate between a hard protein treatment and a light, if you are new to the term, refer to the post entitled "What is a good protein treatment?")

The line also has leave in treatments both protein and moisture. The aphogee green tea reconstructor is the protein leave in treatment while the aphogee pro vitamin leave in conditioner is a moisture leave in.

All of these products are sold in Jamaica and I have seen it in many places. It is usually sold in a combo, for example the aphogee 2 step protein treatment (16 oz), the aphogee balancing moisturizer (16 oz) and the aphogee green tea reconstructor is usually sold as a combo for less than $2500 JMD. So if you want a good protein line if you are more prone to split ends, your hair is severely damaged or you just want to maintain your hair's versatility in tip top shape, check it out.

STOP! Cutting your hair does not make your hair grow

Its a myth people cutting your hair will NOT make it grow!!!. Your hair will grow with proper hair care routine and an effective regimen that is properly constructed. The end result of the latter is healthy strong hair, with healthy hair, the need for trimming or cutting will be reduced. Let's get technical, the average hair growth rate is 1/2 inch per month or 6 inches a year. If the hair is constantly cut on a monthly or bi monthly basis, let's say an inch, whether or not you had lots of new growth, you really have no length to show for it.Therefore, the obvious thing to do here is RETAIN your length. How do you do that? By making sure your hair is healthy and immune to breakage or damage which is done by doing protein and moisture treatments, by protective styling which hides away the ends from external conditions which may make it dry or damaged and making sure the hair is always moisturized by moisturizing and sealing on a daily basis. However, needless to say, cutting the hair does get rid of the damaged or potentially damaged hair and helps to keep the hair neatly maintained but, cutting hair is only necessary if your hair is damaged and you want to start a fresh. If you are planning to start your hair journey getting a fresh cut is always recommended, but as you go along you will notice you need not cut your hair, but a minor trim may be necessary to maintain the ends.

Note: Refer to other posts about what is moisturizing and sealing, 10 steps to grow long hair and building a regimen.

How to get thicker hair- steps

1. Limit the use of chemical relaxers.
As mentioned times and times before, using chemical relaxers often and of course too soon, (6 weeks and before) will result in thin lifeless hair. Why? because chemical relaxers, or any chemical treatment for that matter, breaks the keratin bonds (protein) in the hair, which explains why our curly kinky hair is straight after the process. Such a strong process cannot and should not be done often. The continuous use of the harsh chemicals will continue to break down keratin bonds which may have not been returned to the hair after the previous process (a protein treatment should be done before relaxing to return or restore the keratin broken down previously). The effects of the overuse of this chemical is not far fetched, which includes breakage, split ends, thin hair etc.

2. Remove split ends
Thin ends or split ends, when left unattended , results in the hair appear thinner than it really is. Split ends are literally caused  when the ends of the hair actually split into strands. Split ends are caused by dry, damaged weak hair and cannot be repaired. By trimming away all split ends or damaged ends, the hair will be much thicker.

3. Use less heat
   Opt to air dry and roller setting, as continuous direct use of heat may lead to dry damaged ends.

4. Add castor oil to your regimen
Our very own castor oil, which we produce in Jamaica, may be used to thicken the hair. Whether used as a prepoo, a sealant, scalp oil, or in your conditioner, continuous use of castor oil will result in thicker growth.

5. Use products with panthenol as its ingredient 
Panthenol helps to thicken hair shaft naturally. Panthenol is also known as vitamin b5 which maybe used in hair products or may be taken orally. It may also be found in your daily hair supplements as a major ingredient.

6. Biotin intake
Biotin intake like panthenol, may thicken the hair naturally. Biotin is a water soluble vitamin, which is also apart of the vitamin b complex family, and is known as vitamin b7. It promotes hair growth and combats dryness. Therefore, opt to take biotin as a part of your daily vitamin regimen.

7. Use protein conditioners weekly or bi weekly
Protein causes the hair to swell in diameter. It also toughens the strands which makes it more resistant to breakage or any hair damage for that matter.

8. Deep Condition more often
Deep conditioning on a regular basis will of course, make the hair more resistant and stronger, by doing so overtime you will notice an increase in thickness of the hair.

What are Protective Styles ??

Protective styles, as the name suggests, are various styles which hide away the ends of the hair protecting it from external conditions which may lead to damage. The ends of the hair are the oldest part of the hair, as the hair grows from the roots, and thus more susceptible to damage. Of course, protective styles don't make your hair grow but they make it possible to eliminate breakage especially if your hair  breaks faster than it grows. Top 5 protective styles worn by the black community are :

1. Buns
Of course, buns hide away your ends, it is easy to do and very convenient if you want a simple protective style to put your hair in when leaving for work or school especially if you are late.

2. Braids
You can braid your natural hair or opt for braid extensions. Whether your braids are your natural hair or extensions it is important that your hair is also being taken care.

3 Weaves
Weave is my favourite protective style as it keeps my ends hidden and allows me to have a fresh style, while not having to use heat or relax to achieve the style I want. Your ends are thoroughly secured when  wearing weaves it is not exposed to the environment and it is not manipulated as such. If your hair thrives on low manipulation then braids and weaves may be for you. As mentioned before, it is still important to care your hair underneath. For example, I do a protein treatment before I do a sew in or when I take down a sew in. Also, it is important to find a moisturizer (preferably one in a spray bottle) to moisturize the cornrows underneath.

4. Flat Twists
Many of you know flat twists, and if you do you will know that it can be  a form of protective styling, as it too, hide away the ends of the hair. Flat twists are very similar to cornrows, in the sense that it is created with two sections of hair, although unlike cornrows which is created in three. Flat twists offer more versatility because unlike two strand twists, flat twists work equally well on both relaxed and natural hair.

5. Twisting
Twisting, or rope twisting is very popular in Jamaica. It may also be referred to as two strand twisting. It is also a form of protective styling but it doesn't work so well with relaxed hair, but of course with natural hair because it won't loose from the ends as easy as relaxed hair.

Hair Vitamins for Hair Growth- Choose your supplements wisely

                      A comprehensive guide to choosing your supplements. 


Basics

The foundation of all hair supplement regimes are a comprehenive multi-vitamin and mineral. Your multi should contain atleast 100%rda of all of your basic vitamins. If it doesn't you might want to consider taking an additional multi-mineral supplement.

For Growth

Your hair is made of Keratin which is made from sulfur bearing amino acids. For this reason, most supplements that help accelerate your growth rate contain some sort of suphur as well. Vitamins that extend you growth cycle also help your growth rate. Of course there are genetic limits to just how fast you hair grows but these vitamins help push your growth rate to the limit of these contraints. Other vitamins that help growth rate are vitamins that help maintain a healthy immune system and thyriod.

B-Complex vitamin; 50mg taken once or twice a day- B-complex vitamins are actually a group 8 vitamins. Thiamine(B1), Riboflavin(B2), Niacin(B3), Pyridoxine(B6), Folic Acid(B9), Cyanocobalamin(B12), Pantothenic Acid(B5), and Biotin. Biotin is sometimes referred to as Vitamin H.

As a whole, B-complex vitamins are involved breaking down protien, carbohydrates, and fats. B-vitamins help make DNA, bloodcells, maintain nerves and your gastrointestinal tract. When it comes to your hair, they help extend the growth cycle so that you can enjoy a longer period of hair growth.

Biotin is a sulpur bearing B-vitamin. Biotin is one of the most widely known "beauty" vitamins. Biotin helps increase growth by contributing to the overal suphur content in out bodies and in aiding the breakdown of protein. Most people show improvement with a daily intake of atleast 5mg of Biotin. Some have taken up to 15 mg without adverse results. There are no know adverse reactions to large doses of Biotin. Some diabetics are prescribed "super" doses to help insulin issues. When taking Biotin it is usually more benefical to split up doses thoughout the day. Biotin sometimes has to be manipulated to see the growth results. One way to do this is to alternate brands. Pick two brands and alternate between them every other month. Another way to do this is buy your daily dose before bedtime. Sleeping on some water soluble vitamins sometimes helps with absorbtion. You can also do a "loading dose" with biotin. For example, lets say you desire an overall intake of 7mg. For the first four weeks you take 10 mg, then for two weeks you drop down to 5mg, and then stick to 7mg thereafter as your maintance dose.

B5 also helps thicken hair strands. You can also take this separately.

One thing to remember when taking indiviual b vitamins is that your body needs a balance of B-vitamins and just taking one by itself can throw off our balance. So if you are taking biotin or b5 by itself you might want to include a b-complex once a day if your multivitamin doesn't have alot. Also, when taking any sort of B-vitamin it is important to space out your doses and make sure you are consuming enough water. If you are sensitive to supplements, start on low doses and work your way up. Stop if you have any adverse side effects.


MSM, Glucosamine, Sulphur bearing amino acids

MSM
Msm is a Methylsulfonylmethane, which is an organic source of sulphur. Msm is present in many foods such as raw fruits, vegetables, milk, and some grain products. Msm is very fragile and processing and cooking deplete foods of their msm content. This is all the more reason to add it to your supplement regime. Msm is a water soluable mineral and any excess is flushed out your system every 12 hours. Amounts as high as 2000mg/kg have been adminstred for tesing purposes without any signs of toxicity. Msm is sold in powder form either in loose form or enclosed in capsules. Msm is also used to help treat other ailment from joint stiffness to allergies. Msm also has a cleansing effect on your system. Some people experience headaches and skin breakouts when first beginning supplementation. One way to avoid this is to start off with a low dose and slowly build up to higher doses. Some people also experience vivid dreams when taking msm. You also need to consume enough water to make sure that you a fully hydrated. The water usually helps speed up the eliminatation of the toxins msm sweeps out. There are no known harmful long or short term effects of Msm supplementation.

The benefits as for as hair and skin are concerned from msm supplementation are softer skin and hair, improved texture of skin and hair, and improved growth. Since Msm adds sulphur to your body, alot of people notice a softer and smoother texture of hair. Many also experience increased growth and density. When deciding on how to incorparate Msm in your vitamin regime, you first need to consider the brand you want to use. There are many brands out there to choose from and you need to be selective and get the best quality. Optimsm and Lignusil msm are patented forms of msm that many have used with success. These type of msm are packaged under many different brand names. Most brands list which kind of msm they have used on the package. You need to also consider your delievery method. Using the loose powder that comes in jar is the most popular way to use msm. You get better absorbtion this way and it is more economical. All you have to do with the powder is mix a little with water or your favorite juice. I recommend you mix it with something that has a little vitamin c because vitamin c helps absorbtion. When starting Msm supplementation, start at a low dose and slowly build up from there. This will give you time to learn how your body responds so you can adjust your water intake or vitamin c intake as you see fit. After you have gotten used to Msm, you can take as much as you can stand. Some ladies here take as little as 2000mg to 30,000mg with great results.

Glucosamine

We have all heard of glucosamine before in all the ads to help heal tired worn out and joints and such but who would have thought it benefits the hair. Well, glucosamine is also another nutrient that adds sulphur to our bodies. Glucosamine is made up of glucose and glutamine and it helps the body product glycosaminoglycans which aid in the development of bone, connective tissue, skin and hair. Glucosamine is usually dervived from shellfish so if you allergic to shellfish, this is not for you. Glucosamine works very well in tandem with Msm. For glucosamine supplementation, start at 500mg twice a day.

Sulphur bearing amino acids

The major single amino acids that contribute to hair growth are L-Cysteine, L-Methionine, and L

ysine.

L-Cysteine

This sulphur bearing amino acid makes up almost 8%-10% of each hair strand. L-Cysteine helps accelerate hair growth and increase overall diameter of each strand. L-Cysteine is also a known antioxiant. L-Cysteine supplementation also increases elasticity in the skin and added strength to the hair and nails. L-Cysteine also helps aid healing of skin wounds. When taking L-Cysteine as with any other single amino acid, it is important to rotate between single amino acids and amino acid complexes. The reason being is to again regulate your internal levels. Whenever one amino acid level is thrown out of whack for a long period of time, the amino acid starts to lose its theraputic qualites. By rotating between singles and complexes, you assure that your internal levels stay balanced and that you get the best effect of the amino acids. This does not have to be complicated either. Just take your singles for a month or two and then take an amino acid complex or just up of protien intake for the next month or two. I usually just add a extra spoon or so of protien powder in my shakes when I am on a break from the single amino acids. L-Cysteine works very well as a supplement. Vitamin C also helps the absorbtion of single amino acids so take additional Vitamin C when experimenting with single aminos such as this one. Take single amino acids on an empty stomach with water or juice, no milk because it will compete with the supplement. You can start at 500mg a day and increase to as much as 2000mg a day. There has been evidence that excessive L-Cysteine could damage dna but everyones body reacts differently. Excessive is usually described as being 2500mg and over for a long period of time. Most healthy diets contribute 1000mg of L Cysteine daily.

L-Methionine

The benefits of this amino acid are similar to the benefits of L-Cysteine. L-Methionine helps preserve the health of the hair root. It also has antioxiant properties and helps remove toxins from the liver. This amino acid is used when treating acetaminophen (Tylenol) poisoning which damages the liver. This amino acid might raise levels of homocysteine in the body which has been linked with coronary heart disease. This risk is with excessive supplementation which is why it is important to take moderate doses of single amino acids and take breaks. The dosage is the same for L-Cysteine. When taken properly L-Methionine contributes alot to the overall health of your hair.




Liquid and Gel forms

Alot of companies produce gel or liquid forms of silica supplements. These products claim to be one of the best ways to take silica because of their absorbtion properties. They are usually mixed with juice or water. Alot of the formulas are prepared from quartz. Dosage varies from brand to brand. Some brands that make some popular liquid and gel formulas are Jarrow, Natures Way, Cellfood, Natures Works, and Natures Answer.

With silica supplements some have found it benefical to rotate brands and formulations to obtain the best effect. Silica also seems to work well in conjuction with sulphur rich supplements, especially MSM.

Other things to consider


Beet Juice Tablets

Beet juice is naturally high in sulphur and iron. When taken as a supplement, beet juice helps thicken the hair and sometimes helps increase growth.

Grapeseed Extract and CoEnzyme Q10

Grapeseed Extract is a popluar antioxiant that also increases circulation. This increase in circulation helps promote better growing conditions. CoEnzyme Q10also increases circulation. By increasing your circulation, you help maintain a even flow of nutrients to the scalp therefore creating the best growing conditions possible.

Zinc

Zinc is an important mineral that supports the immune system. Make sure you consume adquate zinc. You should aim to consume between 15-30mg of zinc. Too little or too much zinc can cause hair loss. Zinc also helps prevent DHT in the body. DHT can lead to premature hair loss. Zinc also helps maintain the oil producing glands on the scalp and adquate zinc intake can help decrease dandruff and dry scalp conditions.

Iodine

Iodine is vital to growing healthy hair. Sheep farmers long ago discovered that vegetation void of iodine due to iodine-depleted soil will adversely affect the growth of wool in sheep.Iodine is synthetically added to table salt, however in this form it is not assimilated well into the body and can therefore cause iodine overload. An excess of iodine in the body can adversely affect the thyroid. It is best to use non-iodized salt and retrieve your iodine from natural food sources. These include seaweed, salmon, seafood, lima beans, molasses, eggs, potatoes with the skin on, watercress and garlic.

Spirulina and other greenfoods

Spirulina contains all sorts of helpful vitamins and minerals from beta carotene, to protein, to iron. Spirulina also contains GLA, an omega fatty acid. Spirulina is also rich in phytochemicals that help enhance the effects of vitamins and minerals. Alot people add spirulina into their daily diet through pill supplements or in powdered form added to drinks and shakes. Other greenfoods to consider adding to your diet are barley and wheatgrass.


In Closing

Supplementation is not necessary to grow long hair. Many people have grown hair to the lengths they desire without extra supplements. What supplements however do help you enhance your hair growing experience. Your hair is only going to grow but oh so fast but whay not experiment with different supplements and really see what your genetic limits of growth are.

Why not make is stronger, softer or enhance the shine. By adding certain supplements into your diet, you also recieve other health benefits besides just better hair growth. As we have all said before when crying about our trimming set backs, health = length.

The same must be said for our health habits. Hair is one of our bodies waste products and by changing what we put into our bodies, we can help change the appearance and quality of what comes out. So lets reduce our refined sugar intake, increase our protein intake, increase our fruits and veggies and choose a couple of supplements to try.

Lets increase the quality of what we put inside ourselves so we can reap the benefits in how we feel and how we look.